gone surfing

At the end of summer this year, I made what I thought was my final trip surfing for 2021. I’d been battling frozen shoulder all year and every attempt to surf was extremely painful. I went out alone which, I haven’t done for about three years.

I almost always find peace in the water when I surf but, to be completely honest, bad surf days are just bad surf days. It’s frustrating when you can’t catch a wave or the water is so rough that the ride lasts for 3 seconds and the wave disappears.

On this particular day, the waves were small and glassy. Just what I needed. I was able to paddle around without pain but could stand up and not wear myself out at the break.

I was able to paddle into and stand up on every single wave that came my way. Weird. I can’t remember the last time that’s happened.

Pushing up on my board was no longer painful. So, I felt confident that if there was an emergency I could get back on my board in a hurry.

This particular day revitalized my love of surfing. Yes, I’m slow, prefer much smaller waves than I used to, and still have really bad/awkward days. But, it’s still fun, thank goodness!

As the weather cooled off, I tried on my old wetsuit, and … not gonna happen. Meh!

Talking myself into buying a much-needed spring suit was easy. And I’ve been out at the beach almost every weekend since this day. Surfing revitalizes me and I really need this after struggling with working from home, not seeing my friends and battling two injuries.

Today, I hope this motivates you to get back to your favorite sport or hobby. Keep trying if you’re out of practice and make time for what you love.

See ya at the beach!

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